Draining and disconnecting

The front of the car with the bonnet down showing the exposed chassis where the headlights and radiators were.

It was getting to that point of disconnecting everything to remove the engine.

The first thing was to remove the front wheels for better access later. To help with this, and just to have a new toy, I bought a DeWalt DCF899P2 impact wrench. It was a bargain from Ebay and about 40% cheaper then from my usual tool suppliers.
950Nm of torque should be plenty to undo wheel bolts while the wheels are off the ground, except the car had other ideas.
Nine of the ten bolts came off easily with that much impact power. However, one of the security bolts wasn’t budging. I chocked the wheel spokes with a timber to the ground and tried a 2 foot long 1/2″ drive breaker bar. Nope!
I then tried a much stiffer 2 foot long 3/4″ drive breaker, nope still nothing.
It took an extra 3 foot of scaffold pole dding to the breaker, and my weight bouncing on the end, to crack the bolt loose!

Anyway, that was yesterday. Today I decided to drain the coolant and figure out removing the front cross member and radiators. The radiator fixings were so badly corroded there was no chance of them coming out otherwise.

While I was underneath I noticed this!

An air con hose terminal under the car, showing a burst pipe crimp.
Oh! Well that explains things!

Well, that explains why the air con wasn’t working!

Anyway, with the coolant drained I was able to disconnect the hoses and work my way around unclipping the wiring loom.
The headlights were removed, the fans and temperature sensor disconnected, though that was not easy, and the air con hoses were cut. Then there was the bonnet cable and bonnet release sensor that I almost forgot.
The front came away easily with the radiators attached leaving a clear access to the engine.

The front of the car with the bonnet up and the cross member removed exposing the engine.
That makes access easier.

The radiators and fans, though in good condition may have to be damaged to remove them as all the fixings are very badly corroded and the Torx heads are undrivable.

The front cross member with the radiators and fans still attached.
Do I still need these?

I disconnected as much of the wiring loom from around the engine as I could get at. Not all of that was easy as many of the connector release catches were not obvious, or were fitted as to not be visible. This took a lot more time then the rest of the disassembly.
The gear change cables and the clutch hydraulic cylinder were also disconnected at this stage.
I then labelled as many of the connectors as I could.

A mass of wires and pipes over the exposed gearbox.
Ummm, I hope I have labelled them all correctly!

So that is it for today. I still have more plumbing to remove, for the heater and some vacuum/breather pipes, and the fuel lines.

The front of the car with the bonnet down showing the exposed chassis where the headlights and radiators were.
That’s it for today.