Following from part 3 I am now going to look at the backscene and landscape that the house sits into. This is quite involved so we’ll look at the concrete wall, fencing and the road first.
Last time we left the house sitting on a OSB back wall and ground. This took up about 1200mm (4 feet) of width and for photographic reasons I decided that wasn’t enough to place the house comfortably into its surroundings. I cut the OSB and split it into a front section and a back section leaving the house to fill the gap. That made the whole scene 1800mm (6feet) long!
I wanted the back wall of the scene to be a highways agency slip formed concrete wall that is retaining an embankment that the ring road junction slip road is on.
I decided to use the same process as the front wall of the house but with finishing plaster for a smoother finish, so water PVA, bonding plaster and finish plaster mixed with some grey acrylic paint.
I don’t think I would do that again. I added the grey paint as an afterthought and it made the mix very sloppy and runny. It also took a very long time to dry!
However, several days later the wall looked like this and I was able to score some joint lines into it to make six foot wide panels.
Ignore the two cut outs in the base, they are to clear a raised rim on the miniatures work bench where this will be sited. Measure once, cut twice!
I decided that there should be a road at the front of the house, only a narrow road as befitting a street of small houses that are less important then the construction of a ring road junction. I decided that bonding plaster would provide a good road texture and could be plastered on to create the proper camber.
Of course, I didn’t learn from doing the grey concrete and mixed it with black acrylic paint…
A week later and it was still tacky!
I am sure it will look fine when it has been weathered and with some double yellow lines painted, maybe.
To extend the visual height of the concrete wall I decided to add a fence. I started by making some single sided fence posts by cutting some planks and gluing to some 6mm dowel. I could have saved the dowel as I only wanted the end to be round but I had a lot of it spare.
The dowel protrudes from one end so that it could be plugged into the top of the wall.
For the top of the wall I cut and shaped a length of scrap wood to form a row of coping stones. The fence posts were installed and the whole thing painted in a concrete grey.
I made fence panels from strips of cereal box cardboard and glued them to the back of the fence posts.
The weathering is just a simple dry brushing of greens, greys and browns. I can do more later once they are in situ.
Some scrappy trees peering over the top of the fence will help hide the sockets and shelf supports. This is the shelf that limits the height of the house. I could move the shelf, and did consider that to gain a bit more height, but Harriet’s workshop and garden railway lives up there.
As you can see there is still masking tape around the road as it still hasn’t finished curing!
This is how the house sits in the landscape. Daisy will be able to watch, and hear, the traffic on the slip road from her bedroom window, that will be nice for her!
The area of bare OSB in front of the house will be the pavement footpath and a small front garden for the house.
I will cover that in the next instalment.